Embracing the chaos

First half of January 2021 on the dry in Sant Carles shipyard

At the time I am writing this, it is already June. We have been marina bound in Sant Carles de la Ràpita on board Dragonfly for almost six months and we are expecting our mast and rig to be reinstalled anytime now so we can start sailing at last. It has been delayed overall eight weeks.. but that’s the way things roll in this pandemic climate. The summer is setting in slowly and the atmosphere is nothing like it was when we first arrived here early December with the hope of buying the only yacht that had been on our minds. We haven’t yet left but of course the journey is well under way.

It has taken me this long to be capable of sitting down and reflect on the big picture, until recently we were mostly in coping mode. Half a year.. and a particularly messy and challenging ride, often overwhelming.

The days that followed our arrival in Sant Carles were not easy. The six of us settled in a one bedroom apartment with the hope that we could purchase the one and only boat.. Negotiations were painfully slow, the outcome uncertain. Both seller and yacht broker were remote. Winter time, everyone wearing face masks.. strict sanitary restrictions meant all small commerces and cafes were closed, the place was ghostly. Finally, the sale was made possible, entangled with complicated fiscal and registration issues to work through. Simon, Tama and a couple of Spanish skippers sailed together to Algeria and back to settle the purchase of the boat just in time before Christmas.

A swift trip to Algeria and back before Christmas

Our return to Sant Carles after the Christmas holiday was our first experience settling on to the boat as a family. After a day of rest, we pulled the boat out of the water to fix the bow thruster. It turned out to be a major job, and we stayed out of the water for two weeks. That meant no heating, no fridge, no toilet on board and we were perched five meters over the tarmac with a small child. And snow!!! At this particular time, Spain apparently experienced the longest cold wave in twenty years. We layered pants, tops, beanies and invested in a few plug-in heaters to take the edge off and cozied up in each other’s space.

While slowly learning to adapt to life at six in a small space, the refit of Dragonfly got under way. We pulled everything out and apart, sorted, cleaned, organised, made lists, troubleshot, researched, read manuals, made contacts with professionals, ordered parts, worked systems out etc.. most jobs ended up as simultaneous long term projects and only started taking shape in May.

We were lucky to be able to dodge pandemic restrictions a couple of times and spent precious time with family and friends in the middle of it all. Overall, the children did very well finding their groove in this little catalan fishing town with no other children in sight week after week and somewhat high-strung parents. They adapted well to new learning routines and scheduled responsibilities (without which unfortunately we wouldn’t survive in here), they explored the town and waterfront on their bikes, played ball on the beach, looked after their little brother and spent way too much time in front of screens, which we came to accept as being okay.

On the other hand, we have rediscovered the simple pleasure of true impromptu encounters, the way they happen when you are a travelling student. Non scheduled, non rushed interactions with people of all walks of life. Beautiful conversations and connections. I had missed that very much in our busy land life, it was difficult enough catching up with close friends. Now we have both time and opportunity to meet all kinds of wonderful people.

Everything is coming together at last. The list of jobs is still long, but it will always be, and maybe what part of the journey is about is finding a graceful balance between doing and simply being. Much to un-learn.

We are finally able to contemplate the horizon and appreciate where we find ourselves, at just the right time. All is weaving itself in absolute perfection. We will soon be setting off on-board a yacht we adore, a lovely home equipped for long term adventure.

Before heading off, we bask in the atmosphere of this little Spanish fishing town at the delta of the Ebro river. It has woken up at last and we have kind of grown fond of it. Tuning in to the language, the local rhythm, the sound of church bells, the street smells of cigarettes and fresh bread has nurtured us on some level. The sun is now heating up, people are enjoying themselves outdoors for the first time in months. Flamingo flights and pink sunsets, the mountain ranges towering above the sea. And special people to farewell… we will miss you.