8th of July. We’ve been easing into boat life for four weeks. A delightful change of rhythm. The Balearic archipelago is exceptionally beautiful and has been an ideal place to adjust and transition gently. Stunning rocky islands hiding a multitude of little calas, rocky inlets where the water is incredibly clear. Above, forests of Mediterranean pine brushed by the hot breeze, and cicadas’ rhythmic songs.

Besides the excessive hotspots of party life, there is a remarkably laid back vibe around these islands. Clothing is optional pretty much everywhere, no one cares about everything much but to wind down and soak in the sunshine. The wind has been tame but constant so we’ve been able to sail a great amount and the distance between the islands is just perfect to get the crew accustomed to crossings by day.

We happened to encounter the more excessive places in the first few days around the islands of Ibiza and Formentera, beaches humming and buzzing with party boats, jet skis, day charters, super yachts… constant traffic, big hotels and sometimes very little space between boats at anchorage.  After a brief stop in Palma for the final modifications to the rig, we came across a much more preserved coastline in Mallorca and Menorca. Secluded bays, and the company of like-minded cruisers enjoying a peaceful anchorage.

There is much to learn at once.  About the boat’s systems, various sail set ups, manoeuvres, practical boat habits.. More than any of this, figuring out how to cultivate everyone’s mental wellbeing when we spend so much time together has proved a challenge. The children have been missing their friends, cousins, sports team and social life they left behind in New Zealand seven months ago. It is often apparent.

Thankfully, Tama, Luca and Naomi were able on several occasions to meet again with Louis and Max, the Quintessence boys we had met on our arrival in Ibiza. These interactions have uplifted their spirits radically. A great incentive also for building their sense of independence and adventure away from parents. More rock jumping, snorkelling and coastal exploration with the dinghy.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Dragonfly is an outstanding yacht. We are still coming to terms with the fact that things worked out so well. Thank you Simon for dreaming this Oyster yacht into being over the past 15 years at least. I must add that I am very grateful to have such a keen and competent sailor as a life companion. A very capable technician too, running diagnostics and finding solutions when things go wrong. As for myself, my natural talents lie outside the realm of practical things. It will take some practice before I can lead my own expedition!

We are now waiting for the right weather conditions for our first overnight passage from Menorca to Sardinia. The prospect of being suddenly immersed in Italian culture is very exciting. Tomato tasting is on my radar.

His Highness 3.5 year old Lee is adapting well to life on the sea. He has a really funny personality. It is with the entitlement of a sovereign that he absorbs love from his siblings, whom he recently came to refer to as “His people”!

• 

Tuesday 8th of June 2021:

After six months of refit, we finally left Sant Carles for the Balearic Islands… a little late in the day with eight hours’ crossing ahead to the Columbretes Islands, a natural reserve and ancient volcanic crater, safe heaven for yachts crossing between the Balearics and the Spanish mainland. The wind was blowing straight on the nose as we headed South so we motored the whole way there. The most important thing was to get away. As the coastline faded away, the waves dissipated and for the first time, the six of us in the cockpit were gliding over the sea with music rocking and the breeze in our faces. A huge sense of relief washed over us. So much frustration and fatigue had been bottled up to that point.

We found night shelter in perfect timing for a carefree swim before sunset. We discovered with how much delight Lee doggie paddled in deep water. An incredibly clear dark blue. Tama, Luca and Naomi were giggling with excitement. A few other quiet sailing yachts were moored there. Thousands of noisy seagulls flying above the glowing cliffs.

It was 10pm by the time we sat around to eat our barbecued sausages. We fell asleep feeling very happy and exhausted. 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

9th of June:

We woke up laughing. Absolute perfect morning, beautiful scenery and stillness. Morning swim and coffee in the cockpit before crossing the 60 miles that separated us from Ibiza. It took us approximately 10 hours.

Another very relaxing crossing, fishing rods out and general siesta in the cockpit. We were able to sail for the last three hours of the trip as the wind shifted slightly.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

We arrived just before sundown in the wide and peaceful bay of Cala Xucla on the Northern side of the island of Ibiza. 

10th of June:

Typical summer morning in the Mediterranean. We all messed around in the water before picking up anchor and heading westward along the coast. This time we were able to cruise with just the headsail right out, and with no particular destination in mind. Bliss.

We later turned back eastward to pull into a very quaint little bay called Calla Benirràs. Soon after we anchored by the cliffs, we were met by an English family of long term cruisers with two teenage boys. From this moment on and until the next evening, we hardly saw Tama, Luca and Naomi who were off cliff jumping and exploring in the caring company of 16 year-old Louis and 12 year old Max.

• 

• 

• 

• 

We had to move to the next bay over as we found ourselves on the edge of posidonia weed beds which are protected. Anchors and chains must keep off. We spent a couple of lovely social evenings sitting on the beach in Cala Benirràs with the sounds of bongo drums and colourful beach dancing all around.

Both nights, Lee swam off the beach until dark while the three big kids were rock jumping and people watching. On our second evening there, we befriended a really nice young Quebequois with an Italian upbringing. Jonathan is crew on Vixen II, a 1915 classic yacht at anchor next to us in Cala San Miguel.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

At the time I am writing this, it is already June. We have been marina bound in Sant Carles de la Ràpita on board Dragonfly for almost six months and we are expecting our mast and rig to be reinstalled anytime now so we can start sailing at last. It has been delayed overall eight weeks.. but that’s the way things roll in this pandemic climate. The summer is setting in slowly and the atmosphere is nothing like it was when we first arrived here early December with the hope of buying the only yacht that had been on our minds. We haven’t yet left but of course the journey is well under way.

It has taken me this long to be capable of sitting down and reflect on the big picture, until recently we were mostly in coping mode. Half a year.. and a particularly messy and challenging ride, often overwhelming.

The days that followed our arrival in Sant Carles were not easy. The six of us settled in a one bedroom apartment with the hope that we could purchase the one and only boat.. Negotiations were painfully slow, the outcome uncertain. Both seller and yacht broker were remote. Winter time, everyone wearing face masks.. strict sanitary restrictions meant all small commerces and cafes were closed, the place was ghostly. Finally, the sale was made possible, entangled with complicated fiscal and registration issues to work through. Simon, Tama and a couple of Spanish skippers sailed together to Algeria and back to settle the purchase of the boat just in time before Christmas.

• 

• 

• 

• 

Our return to Sant Carles after the Christmas holiday was our first experience settling on to the boat as a family. After a day of rest, we pulled the boat out of the water to fix the bow thruster. It turned out to be a major job, and we stayed out of the water for two weeks. That meant no heating, no fridge, no toilet on board and we were perched five meters over the tarmac with a small child. And snow!!! At this particular time, Spain apparently experienced the longest cold wave in twenty years. We layered pants, tops, beanies and invested in a few plug-in heaters to take the edge off and cozied up in each other’s space.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

While slowly learning to adapt to life at six in a small space, the refit of Dragonfly got under way. We pulled everything out and apart, sorted, cleaned, organised, made lists, troubleshot, researched, read manuals, made contacts with professionals, ordered parts, worked systems out etc.. most jobs ended up as simultaneous long term projects and only started taking shape in May.

We were lucky to be able to dodge pandemic restrictions a couple of times and spent precious time with family and friends in the middle of it all. Overall, the children did very well finding their groove in this little catalan fishing town with no other children in sight week after week and somewhat high-strung parents. They adapted well to new learning routines and scheduled responsibilities (without which unfortunately we wouldn’t survive in here), they explored the town and waterfront on their bikes, played ball on the beach, looked after their little brother and spent way too much time in front of screens, which we came to accept as being okay.

• 

• 

• 

On the other hand, we have rediscovered the simple pleasure of true impromptu encounters, the way they happen when you are a travelling student. Non scheduled, non rushed interactions with people of all walks of life. Beautiful conversations and connections. I had missed that very much in our busy land life, it was difficult enough catching up with close friends. Now we have both time and opportunity to meet all kinds of wonderful people.

Everything is coming together at last. The list of jobs is still long, but it will always be, and maybe what part of the journey is about is finding a graceful balance between doing and simply being. Much to un-learn.

We are finally able to contemplate the horizon and appreciate where we find ourselves, at just the right time. All is weaving itself in absolute perfection. We will soon be setting off on-board a yacht we adore, a lovely home equipped for long term adventure.

Before heading off, we bask in the atmosphere of this little Spanish fishing town at the delta of the Ebro river. It has woken up at last and we have kind of grown fond of it. Tuning in to the language, the local rhythm, the sound of church bells, the street smells of cigarettes and fresh bread has nurtured us on some level. The sun is now heating up, people are enjoying themselves outdoors for the first time in months. Flamingo flights and pink sunsets, the mountain ranges towering above the sea. And special people to farewell… we will miss you.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

•